Back of Beyond was published in Lakeland Walker in December 2009.
I don’t like being beaten. Nearly twenty years ago, a friend and I decided to climb Skiddaw, but we had to turn back despite being less than 500 feet from the summit. The wind was too powerful and when a gust knocked us over onto our bottoms, it also knocked some common sense into us and we retreated to safety.
Skiddaw towers above Keswick, which is where many decide to climb it from, as did we all those years ago. But it’s possible to reach the top of Skiddaw from the slightly quieter foothill of Dodd. This was my plan. If I was going to make another attempt on the summit then I would sneak up behind it without it seeing me. It was a plan that worked well, offering good views of Bassenthwaite Lake as well as Derwent Water, this route ascends around Dodd and then up Carl Side before helping me make my final ascent to the 3,054 foot peak.
Retracing my steps briefly, the descent follows the ridge route that is visible for most of the latter stages of the climb. This is away
from the Keswick crowds, dropping over Ullock Pike, with its views across the northern tip of Bassenthwaite Lake and towards Scotland. The last leg follows the level, wooded section of the Old Plantation of Thornthwaite Forest, giving my thighs a well-earned rest after all that successful climb!
Skiddaw towers above Keswick, which is where many decide to climb it from as did my friend and I, but it’s possible to reach the top of Skiddaw from the slightly quieter foothill of Dodd. This was my plan. If I was going to make another attempt on the summit then I decided to sneak up behind it without it seeing. It was a plan that worked well, offering good views of Bassenthwaite Lake as well as Derwent Water, as this route ascends Carl Side before helping me make my final ascent to the 3,054 foot peak. Retracing my steps briefly, the descent follows the ridge route visible for most of the latter stages of the climb, away from the crowds, dropping over Ullock Pike, with its views across the northern tip of Bassenthwaite Lake and towards Scotland. The last section drops through the level, wooded section of the Old Plantation of Thornthwaite Forest, giving my thighs a well-earned rest after all that climbing!
From Dodd Wood Osprey Car Park, head towards the tearooms and turn right between these and the toilets. Cross over a bridge and climb to a wide tarmac track. Turn right. This is a long steady climb around the back of Dodd. Ignore all Forestry Commission waymarked trails on the left and right and continue to climb, with Skill Beck on the right.
Eventually, the tarmac track becomes a stonier path after leaving the tree canopy. Continue climbing steadily eventually reaching a wide track. Continue ahead, uphill, where the track is joined by another wide track from the right. Remain climbing, ignoring a track on the right signed to Dodd summit. Soon the track levels, but look out for a stile on the left.
Cross this and take the narrow path up the heather clad hillside. Good views of Keswick and Derwent Water can be seen. Climb up to a junction with a small cairn. Turn left a d follow along a relatively level section. Where path forks, bear right, climbing steeply and at another fork, bear right, straight uphill. Eventually the climb levels, zigzagging its way up the grassy summit to reach a wide stone track. Turn left, up hill and climb to the summit of Carl Side, before dropping briefly to a junction of paths beside Carlside Tarn. Bear right and then follow obvious path up towards Skiddaw summit. At ridge top, turn left to summit.
From here, return the same way to Carlside Tarn, but this time at the junction of paths, bear right. Follow this path as it traverses along the ridge of Longside Edge, undulating its way up and over Ullock Pike. From here the route drops steeply over a series of hummocks becoming a grassier path. Where path forks, bear left onto a stonier path, and then fork left again. Follow this obvious path, which turns sharp left and continues to drop. At a junction, turn left and continue to drop. Pass through a gate and down steps to a junction with a wide level track. Turn left and follow this, ignoring a path to the left. At another junction, continue ahead, parallel with the road, then cross over a footbridge and over a crossing track. Follow path through trees and near the road, cross over the coach park, and then bear left to climb up tarmac track. Finally, take stone path on right, which will return you to the car park.
Vitals
Grade: Moderate
Terrain: Good forest tracks, open fell side, some scree.
Distance: 6 ¾ miles / 10.8 km
Climb: 3103 feet / 946 m
Start / Finish: Dodd Wood Osprey car Park (Grid Ref: NY 235 281)
Map: OS Explorer OL4 – The English Lakes North West Area
Harvey Superwalker Lakeland North
Transport: The Osprey Bus Service runs from Keswick on selected weekends during the main tourist season and daily throughout the main summer holidays. Visit www.ospreywatch.co.uk for timetable.
1. My favourite town in the Lakes is Grasmere. Not only does the
Gingerbread provide good sustenance when out on the fells but Sam
Read's bookshop is a delight to browse.
2. I try to visit at least twice a year for a week at a time,
although, Shropshire is only three hours away, so I have been known to
make the odd day-trip from time to time!
3. My favourite walk is a route I usually do on my first day of my
holiday. Staying near Hawkshead, I follow Esthwaite Water to Near
Sawrey, then climb up onto Claife Heights before dropping down the
other side to Belle Grange on the shores of Windermere. From there I
wander along to Wray Castle then back over Latterbarrow to Hawkshead.
It's not a strenuous route, but it's a good way to ease yourself into
a holiday gently, without bumping into too many people!
4. Top Tip. Circular walks are for car users. Lakeland public
transport is good. Ditch the car, use bus, boat or train to do linear
walks instead. Much more interesting!
Skiddaw towers above Keswick, which is where many decide to climb it from, as did we all those years ago. But it’s possible to reach the top of Skiddaw from the slightly quieter foothill of Dodd. This was my plan. If I was going to make another attempt on the summit then I would sneak up behind it without it seeing me. It was a plan that worked well, offering good views of Bassenthwaite Lake as well as Derwent Water, this route ascends around Dodd and then up Carl Side before helping me make my final ascent to the 3,054 foot peak.
Retracing my steps briefly, the descent follows the ridge route that is visible for most of the latter stages of the climb. This is away
from the Keswick crowds, dropping over Ullock Pike, with its views across the northern tip of Bassenthwaite Lake and towards Scotland. The last leg follows the level, wooded section of the Old Plantation of Thornthwaite Forest, giving my thighs a well-earned rest after all that successful climb!
Skiddaw towers above Keswick, which is where many decide to climb it from as did my friend and I, but it’s possible to reach the top of Skiddaw from the slightly quieter foothill of Dodd. This was my plan. If I was going to make another attempt on the summit then I decided to sneak up behind it without it seeing. It was a plan that worked well, offering good views of Bassenthwaite Lake as well as Derwent Water, as this route ascends Carl Side before helping me make my final ascent to the 3,054 foot peak. Retracing my steps briefly, the descent follows the ridge route visible for most of the latter stages of the climb, away from the crowds, dropping over Ullock Pike, with its views across the northern tip of Bassenthwaite Lake and towards Scotland. The last section drops through the level, wooded section of the Old Plantation of Thornthwaite Forest, giving my thighs a well-earned rest after all that climbing!
From Dodd Wood Osprey Car Park, head towards the tearooms and turn right between these and the toilets. Cross over a bridge and climb to a wide tarmac track. Turn right. This is a long steady climb around the back of Dodd. Ignore all Forestry Commission waymarked trails on the left and right and continue to climb, with Skill Beck on the right.
Eventually, the tarmac track becomes a stonier path after leaving the tree canopy. Continue climbing steadily eventually reaching a wide track. Continue ahead, uphill, where the track is joined by another wide track from the right. Remain climbing, ignoring a track on the right signed to Dodd summit. Soon the track levels, but look out for a stile on the left.
Cross this and take the narrow path up the heather clad hillside. Good views of Keswick and Derwent Water can be seen. Climb up to a junction with a small cairn. Turn left a d follow along a relatively level section. Where path forks, bear right, climbing steeply and at another fork, bear right, straight uphill. Eventually the climb levels, zigzagging its way up the grassy summit to reach a wide stone track. Turn left, up hill and climb to the summit of Carl Side, before dropping briefly to a junction of paths beside Carlside Tarn. Bear right and then follow obvious path up towards Skiddaw summit. At ridge top, turn left to summit.
From here, return the same way to Carlside Tarn, but this time at the junction of paths, bear right. Follow this path as it traverses along the ridge of Longside Edge, undulating its way up and over Ullock Pike. From here the route drops steeply over a series of hummocks becoming a grassier path. Where path forks, bear left onto a stonier path, and then fork left again. Follow this obvious path, which turns sharp left and continues to drop. At a junction, turn left and continue to drop. Pass through a gate and down steps to a junction with a wide level track. Turn left and follow this, ignoring a path to the left. At another junction, continue ahead, parallel with the road, then cross over a footbridge and over a crossing track. Follow path through trees and near the road, cross over the coach park, and then bear left to climb up tarmac track. Finally, take stone path on right, which will return you to the car park.
Vitals
Grade: Moderate
Terrain: Good forest tracks, open fell side, some scree.
Distance: 6 ¾ miles / 10.8 km
Climb: 3103 feet / 946 m
Start / Finish: Dodd Wood Osprey car Park (Grid Ref: NY 235 281)
Map: OS Explorer OL4 – The English Lakes North West Area
Harvey Superwalker Lakeland North
Transport: The Osprey Bus Service runs from Keswick on selected weekends during the main tourist season and daily throughout the main summer holidays. Visit www.ospreywatch.co.uk for timetable.
1. My favourite town in the Lakes is Grasmere. Not only does the
Gingerbread provide good sustenance when out on the fells but Sam
Read's bookshop is a delight to browse.
2. I try to visit at least twice a year for a week at a time,
although, Shropshire is only three hours away, so I have been known to
make the odd day-trip from time to time!
3. My favourite walk is a route I usually do on my first day of my
holiday. Staying near Hawkshead, I follow Esthwaite Water to Near
Sawrey, then climb up onto Claife Heights before dropping down the
other side to Belle Grange on the shores of Windermere. From there I
wander along to Wray Castle then back over Latterbarrow to Hawkshead.
It's not a strenuous route, but it's a good way to ease yourself into
a holiday gently, without bumping into too many people!
4. Top Tip. Circular walks are for car users. Lakeland public
transport is good. Ditch the car, use bus, boat or train to do linear
walks instead. Much more interesting!