On The Olympic Trail in Shropshire was published in Holiday Cottages magazine in July/August 2008.
Standing in the centre of Much Wenlock, thousands of miles away from Beijing, it’s difficult to imagine what the connection is between this rural Shropshire market town and the 2008 Olympic Games. Admittedly, the heat of the sun beating down on my face makes me feel as though I’m standing next to an Olympic flame, but surprisingly there is a stronger connection than that. In fact, Much Wenlock claims to have been at the starting block of today’s modern Olympic movement.
The Beijing Games may not have been taking place at all, if it wasn’t for a Victorian doctor from Much Wenlock by the name of William Penny Brookes, who was born, lived and died in the town. To find out more about him, I’m following the town’s Olympian Trail, which thankfully, isn’t a marathon, or a 100-metre sprint, but a gentle, 2,100 metre self-guided tour around this small rural community.
Brookes became a Justice of the Peace in 1841, a role he continued with for nearly 4 decades. During this time he frequently passed judgement on people involved in petty crime, alcoholism and theft. As an educated man, and a doctor, William Penny Brookes was convinced that many people could avoid such social problems through education and good physical exercise, and was keen to “promote the moral, physical and intellectual improvement of the inhabitants of the Town.”
In the same year, Brookes created the Agricultural Reading Society, a type of lending library service which anyone could join, “for the promotion and diffusion of useful information.” He even wrote to dignitaries of the time such as the Duke of Wellington and Abraham Darby asking for donations and books. Such was Brookes’ desire to see people improve themselves, he also went on to create groups to promote botany, art and music. His most important group was established in 1850, which he called the Wenlock Olympic Class. Designed to promote physical wellbeing, the first Wenlock Olympic Games were held in 1850, and were open to all.
Striding out along the trail, within the first 50 metres, I find the Corn Exchange. This was a building that Brookes approved of, proposing that there should be “a large and handsome room for lectures or public meetings with an additional room for your library.”
Games For Everyone
The first games held in October 1850 were a mixture of athletics and traditional country sports. In fact, the next marker I spy on the trail is the 100 metres point, which is actually about 8 metres further than the distance 14 year old boys used to run. The 100-yard (92 metre) race offered 5 shillings as the first prize! Brookes also knew how to induce a bit of fun too. Most games had a fun element, such as a wheelbarrow race, or a race for elderly women. Their prize? A pound of tea!
Reaching the 300 metre marker, I find myself standing on the corner of the High Street and Bridgnorth Road. Opposite is the Gaskell Arms public house. Before each set of games, Brookes would perform an opening ceremony of speeches in front of the Gaskell Arms, which were then followed by a processions of flag bearers, competitors, a band and of course, local officials.
Together, they would march through to the Recreation grounds on the other side of town were the games took place. The similarities with the opening ceremonies of today’s modern Olympics are obvious, although I’m sure William’s ceremonies were a little cheaper than today’s affairs.
Wandering back down the other side of the High Street, I can’t help but notice the queue of people outside Ryan & Sons Family Butchers shop. Stretching down the High Street, a queue like that is always a good sign, and if you’re looking for a tasty meal back at your cottage, one of their homemade Steak and Kidney pies is a treat!
Although there was no international Olympic event during Brookes’ lifetime, games were held in Greece for the Greeks. They were funded by a wealthy Greek living in Romania. Keen to promote the chances of creating an International event, Brookes sent him the sum of £10 to be awarded as a prize during the Greek Games. It turned out to be a clever move.
In 1861, following another initiative by Brookes, the Shropshire Olympic Games were established, and four years later, he went on to co-establish the National Olympic Association, which was based in Liverpool.
Greek Connections
In 1877, Brookes tried another canny approach and asked if Greece would reciprocate his prize donation by giving them an Olympian prize for the National Olympian Games held in Shrewsbury, in what was Queen Victoria’s jubilee year. The King of Greece agreed and sent a silver cup, which brought Brookes into contact with the Greek Charge d’Affaire in London. This was an opportunity for Brookes to push for an International Olympic event. Unfortunately the Greek Government declined.
Turning right into The Square and then Barrow Street, I cross over to find the 700 metre marker, opposite the Raven Hotel. In 1889, in response to an advert in the newspaper, Brookes wrote to Baron Coubertin, organiser of an International Congress on Physical Education. The two struck up a friendship, and Brookes invited Coubertin to the Much Wenlock Olympian Games in 1890. It was here, at The Raven Hotel, that Coubertin was treated to a dinner in his honour. Here, Brookes shared with Coubertin his dream to revive the International Olympic Games, and when Coubertin returned to France, he wrote an article in ‘La Revue Athletique’ in which he said “If the Olympic Games that Modern Greece has not yet been able to revive still survives today, it is not due to a Greek, but to Dr William Penny Brookes.” They turned out to be prophetic words indeed.
Walking back into the centre of Much Wenlock, via Church Walk, the route stops behind the Guildhall, where Brookes sat as a Justice of the Peace for over 40 years. Crossing over to the other side of the road, I come face to face with 4 Wilmore Street, where Brookes was born in 1809. After undertaking his medical training, this is the house where he returned to take over from his father as a doctor, and where he lived until he died. Brookes also entertained Coubertin here too, during his visit in 1890.
Man of Many Talents
As I continue to follow the trail, it’s clear that William Penny Brookes had his finger in many pies, and probably one of Ryan’s Butcher too if he had any sense! The 1,000 metre mark in Sheinton Street, is where one of the original gas street lamps was that once lit the town. Brookes was a co-founder of the Wenlock Gas Company, and further on at the 1,100 metre point are the remains of the railway embankment, a form of transport that Brookes played a role in bringing to the town. In fact the first train to arrive in Much Wenlock coincided with the Wenlock Games of 1861.
Passing the old station on my right, now a private residence, I cut through a gate to reach the 1,300 metre mark beside the recreation fields. This is where many of the events for the Wenlock Games took place and where they continue today. Even now, following the trail, I see people playing football. I’m sure Brookes would be delighted to see his townsfolk enjoying such physical exercise.
Cutting back across the old railway remains, the trail takes me through the outskirts of town, back towards its centre, passing the wonderfully majestic ruins of Wenlock Priory. As a religious site, this dates back to 680AD, although the Priory ruins are much younger, dating from the 12th Century.
From the Priory, it takes just a few short steps to enter Holy Trinity Churchyard to reach the 2,000 metre marker beside the Brookes family graves. Sadly, Brookes died in December 1895, a mere 4 months before the very first International Olympic games held in Athens in 1896. Could he have been any closer to the finishing line?
In 1994, J.A. Samaranch, President of the International Olympic Committee stood at this very spot “to pay tribute and homage to Dr Brookes who was really the founder of the Modern Olympic Games.”
Crossing back through the Market Hall again, I reach the final marker on the trail, outside the Museum where I began. Who’d have though such a quaint, picturesque village could have had such a profound effect on our lives today? If Much Wenlock doesn’t deserve a Gold medal, Dr William Penny Brookes certainly does!
Getting There
Much Wenlock lies near the English / Welsh border, 13 miles south east of Shrewsbury on the A458. It is 37 miles from Birmingham, 150 from London, 127 from Cardiff and 82 from Manchester. The nearest rail station is Telford.
Want to know more?
Tel: 01952 727679
Website: www.shropshiretourism.info/much-wenlock/
Email: muchwenlock.tourism@shropshire-cc.gov.uk
Website: www.english-heritage.org.uk
Open: Daily between May and August, reduced opening days throughout rest of the year. Small admission charge. English heritage members free.
Closing Ceremony
It’s not all about the Olympics at Much Wenlock. Take a more leisurely saunter around some of these other nearby attractions.
The Beijing Games may not have been taking place at all, if it wasn’t for a Victorian doctor from Much Wenlock by the name of William Penny Brookes, who was born, lived and died in the town. To find out more about him, I’m following the town’s Olympian Trail, which thankfully, isn’t a marathon, or a 100-metre sprint, but a gentle, 2,100 metre self-guided tour around this small rural community.
Brookes became a Justice of the Peace in 1841, a role he continued with for nearly 4 decades. During this time he frequently passed judgement on people involved in petty crime, alcoholism and theft. As an educated man, and a doctor, William Penny Brookes was convinced that many people could avoid such social problems through education and good physical exercise, and was keen to “promote the moral, physical and intellectual improvement of the inhabitants of the Town.”
In the same year, Brookes created the Agricultural Reading Society, a type of lending library service which anyone could join, “for the promotion and diffusion of useful information.” He even wrote to dignitaries of the time such as the Duke of Wellington and Abraham Darby asking for donations and books. Such was Brookes’ desire to see people improve themselves, he also went on to create groups to promote botany, art and music. His most important group was established in 1850, which he called the Wenlock Olympic Class. Designed to promote physical wellbeing, the first Wenlock Olympic Games were held in 1850, and were open to all.
Striding out along the trail, within the first 50 metres, I find the Corn Exchange. This was a building that Brookes approved of, proposing that there should be “a large and handsome room for lectures or public meetings with an additional room for your library.”
Games For Everyone
The first games held in October 1850 were a mixture of athletics and traditional country sports. In fact, the next marker I spy on the trail is the 100 metres point, which is actually about 8 metres further than the distance 14 year old boys used to run. The 100-yard (92 metre) race offered 5 shillings as the first prize! Brookes also knew how to induce a bit of fun too. Most games had a fun element, such as a wheelbarrow race, or a race for elderly women. Their prize? A pound of tea!
Reaching the 300 metre marker, I find myself standing on the corner of the High Street and Bridgnorth Road. Opposite is the Gaskell Arms public house. Before each set of games, Brookes would perform an opening ceremony of speeches in front of the Gaskell Arms, which were then followed by a processions of flag bearers, competitors, a band and of course, local officials.
Together, they would march through to the Recreation grounds on the other side of town were the games took place. The similarities with the opening ceremonies of today’s modern Olympics are obvious, although I’m sure William’s ceremonies were a little cheaper than today’s affairs.
Wandering back down the other side of the High Street, I can’t help but notice the queue of people outside Ryan & Sons Family Butchers shop. Stretching down the High Street, a queue like that is always a good sign, and if you’re looking for a tasty meal back at your cottage, one of their homemade Steak and Kidney pies is a treat!
Although there was no international Olympic event during Brookes’ lifetime, games were held in Greece for the Greeks. They were funded by a wealthy Greek living in Romania. Keen to promote the chances of creating an International event, Brookes sent him the sum of £10 to be awarded as a prize during the Greek Games. It turned out to be a clever move.
In 1861, following another initiative by Brookes, the Shropshire Olympic Games were established, and four years later, he went on to co-establish the National Olympic Association, which was based in Liverpool.
Greek Connections
In 1877, Brookes tried another canny approach and asked if Greece would reciprocate his prize donation by giving them an Olympian prize for the National Olympian Games held in Shrewsbury, in what was Queen Victoria’s jubilee year. The King of Greece agreed and sent a silver cup, which brought Brookes into contact with the Greek Charge d’Affaire in London. This was an opportunity for Brookes to push for an International Olympic event. Unfortunately the Greek Government declined.
Turning right into The Square and then Barrow Street, I cross over to find the 700 metre marker, opposite the Raven Hotel. In 1889, in response to an advert in the newspaper, Brookes wrote to Baron Coubertin, organiser of an International Congress on Physical Education. The two struck up a friendship, and Brookes invited Coubertin to the Much Wenlock Olympian Games in 1890. It was here, at The Raven Hotel, that Coubertin was treated to a dinner in his honour. Here, Brookes shared with Coubertin his dream to revive the International Olympic Games, and when Coubertin returned to France, he wrote an article in ‘La Revue Athletique’ in which he said “If the Olympic Games that Modern Greece has not yet been able to revive still survives today, it is not due to a Greek, but to Dr William Penny Brookes.” They turned out to be prophetic words indeed.
Walking back into the centre of Much Wenlock, via Church Walk, the route stops behind the Guildhall, where Brookes sat as a Justice of the Peace for over 40 years. Crossing over to the other side of the road, I come face to face with 4 Wilmore Street, where Brookes was born in 1809. After undertaking his medical training, this is the house where he returned to take over from his father as a doctor, and where he lived until he died. Brookes also entertained Coubertin here too, during his visit in 1890.
Man of Many Talents
As I continue to follow the trail, it’s clear that William Penny Brookes had his finger in many pies, and probably one of Ryan’s Butcher too if he had any sense! The 1,000 metre mark in Sheinton Street, is where one of the original gas street lamps was that once lit the town. Brookes was a co-founder of the Wenlock Gas Company, and further on at the 1,100 metre point are the remains of the railway embankment, a form of transport that Brookes played a role in bringing to the town. In fact the first train to arrive in Much Wenlock coincided with the Wenlock Games of 1861.
Passing the old station on my right, now a private residence, I cut through a gate to reach the 1,300 metre mark beside the recreation fields. This is where many of the events for the Wenlock Games took place and where they continue today. Even now, following the trail, I see people playing football. I’m sure Brookes would be delighted to see his townsfolk enjoying such physical exercise.
Cutting back across the old railway remains, the trail takes me through the outskirts of town, back towards its centre, passing the wonderfully majestic ruins of Wenlock Priory. As a religious site, this dates back to 680AD, although the Priory ruins are much younger, dating from the 12th Century.
From the Priory, it takes just a few short steps to enter Holy Trinity Churchyard to reach the 2,000 metre marker beside the Brookes family graves. Sadly, Brookes died in December 1895, a mere 4 months before the very first International Olympic games held in Athens in 1896. Could he have been any closer to the finishing line?
In 1994, J.A. Samaranch, President of the International Olympic Committee stood at this very spot “to pay tribute and homage to Dr Brookes who was really the founder of the Modern Olympic Games.”
Crossing back through the Market Hall again, I reach the final marker on the trail, outside the Museum where I began. Who’d have though such a quaint, picturesque village could have had such a profound effect on our lives today? If Much Wenlock doesn’t deserve a Gold medal, Dr William Penny Brookes certainly does!
Getting There
Much Wenlock lies near the English / Welsh border, 13 miles south east of Shrewsbury on the A458. It is 37 miles from Birmingham, 150 from London, 127 from Cardiff and 82 from Manchester. The nearest rail station is Telford.
Want to know more?
Tel: 01952 727679
Website: www.shropshiretourism.info/much-wenlock/
Email: muchwenlock.tourism@shropshire-cc.gov.uk
Website: www.english-heritage.org.uk
Open: Daily between May and August, reduced opening days throughout rest of the year. Small admission charge. English heritage members free.
Closing Ceremony
It’s not all about the Olympics at Much Wenlock. Take a more leisurely saunter around some of these other nearby attractions.