The refreshing, Irish Sea breeze, gently cools my sun-tanned nose as my toes wiggle child-like in the warm, dry sand. High above, the gulls screech in a perfect blue sky, and my hazy view extends from the Little Orme in the west to the Wirral peninsula in the East. The beach here at the Point of Ayr on the North Wales coast has to be one of the best in the area, and not just for kids-at-heart either. The RSPB have a small hide nearby because it’s popular with Oystercatchers, Curlew, Greenshank, Redshank, and the occasional Merganser feeding in the rich waters of the Dee Estuary.

Reclining into the tall, grass covered, sand dunes, it’s easy to imagine how this stretch of coastline has existed like this for thousands of years. Except it hasn’t.

          Our coastline is constantly evolving. Much is made in the news of climate change, global warming and rising sea waters. This certainly means that organisations, authorities and communities have many challenges ahead, but there are also opportunities too. The spectacular coastline that we see today is a result of rising waters, coastal flooding and tidal erosion pounding our shores on a daily basis over many centuries.

          The National Trust owns a sixth of the coastline of Wales, (230 kilometres), and it believes that 70% of it is at risk from coastal flooding and erosion. “The challenges facing the National Trust provide a snapshot of how sea level rise and climate change will affect the whole of Wales,” says Iwan Huws, National Trust Director for Wales. “We have started to prepare for and adapt to the changing nature of the coastline.”

Clutching a handful of dune sand, I watch as the fine grains gradually stream through my fingers, like that in an egg timer, as it falls back to the ground. When our coastline is made of this stuff, it’s so easy to see that there’s nothing permanent about it.

          Sea levels in the UK have risen by several tens of metres since the last Ice Age and by 20 centimetres (8 inches) since 1900. The UK Climate Change Impacts Programme believes that by 2080, sea levels will rise by another 26 to 86 centimetres (10 to 33 inches). The National Trust is currently assuming a rise of 1 metre, or just over 3 feet, by 2100. Yet it’s those very coastal waters that have created many of the stunning beauty spots like Worm’s Head on the Gower Peninsula, the huge tidal estuaries like here at Point of Ayr, and the small idyllic sandy coves of Pembrokeshire and Anglesey.

          “Over the next few decades, flooding and erosion caused by sea level rise and more frequent storms appears inevitable,” Iwan says. “No one in Wales is more than 50 miles from the shore, and tourism is particularly dependent on our wonderful coast. Like King Canute, we can’t control the ocean and command it to retreat. Instead we must plan how to adapt to a future of advancing seas.”

          I’ve already seen evidence of this. Coastal footpaths often disappear after heavy storms or high tides and the popular Pembrokeshire Coast National Trail is always under pressure. However, the Trust have already carried out work on this route near Mathry, where sections of the coast path have been moved back inland, away from the vulnerable, eroding cliffs.

          A constantly moving coastline often leads to new discoveries. The Gower peninsula around Llangennith caught many sailors unaware during the 18^th and 19^th centuries, resulting in several shipwrecks. The most famous of these is the Helvetia, who grounded during storms in November 1887 and whose carcass is still visible at low tide, poignantly poking out of the sand today. In February this year, heavy winter seas shifted sand, causing other strange objects to emerge from the beach in Rhossili Bay. With over 30 shipwrecks in the area, it was first assumed that this was yet another, but further investigations suggest they could be beach defence remnants from the Second World War.

          And up in the Lleyn Peninsula, a landslip at the sea cliffs of Pistyll led to the discovery of a Bronze Age bracelet.

          Of course, as some coastal areas have to be abandoned, new coastal habitats will create opportunities. Higher water levels will mean that current dry land may become new salt-marsh habitat, and previously drained areas will become wet once more.

          Gazing across to my right, I can just make out the upper reaches of the Dee Estuary above the tufts of grass in the sand dunes here. Much of this land was once in the sea, our descendants having drained the area and used it for industry or agriculture. Rising sea levels may mean that the time has come to give it back.         

          What concerns many people is that rising water levels could also take away some of the coastal treasures that we’ve come to cherish. The National Trust has identified 55 of its properties that could lose land through coastal erosion over the next hundred years. Of those, 4% may loose between 100 and 200 metres (325 to 650 feet) of land to the sea.

          So whilst climate change and global warming may impact upon the speed at which the sea levels rise, it should be remembered that our coastline is always evolving. Whilst mankind has forced the sea back in some areas, in others, the waters have taken their revenge. It is clear however, that we should expect and plan for more drastic change. Sitting here on a hot summer’s day though, watching children and adults enjoying the beach, making sandcastles, flying kites, or having a paddle, it’ is difficult to imagine it being any other way.

          “Our changing coastline demonstrates that the impacts of climate change are being felt here and now,” says Iwan. “We also need to adapt to the changes underway and plan for the future of coastal communities. This means working with the forces of nature wherever possible and recognising the connections between land and sea.”

          So why not take a summer seaside stroll this month and explore the coastline that we have at the moment? There are 3 walks around the welsh coastline for you to explore. You can dawdle through the dunes here at Point of Ayr, and do some bird watching if you like, or seek out the shipwreck sands of Rhossili Bay. Alternatively you can let the train take the strain for part of the journey in the Mawddach Estuary, and then experience a walk that few other coastal estuaries can provide.

North Wales – Point of Ayr – 2 ¼ miles – Easy (with additional 1-mile extension)

From car park just before the Smuggler’s Inn, turn left, away from the beach, and follow the road back inland, passing a few shops and amusements. Take the next road on your right, doubling back on yourself, passing residential properties on both sides to reach the end. Pass through the squeeze barriers beside a large gate to enter the beach area. Follow this main path round to the left and at a junction, turn left. Continue along this stone and concrete path which runs parallel to the dunes on your right.

          After about half a mile, there’s a junction with another concrete path on the right. This is signed to the beach. Take this path and gently climb through the dunes to reach a junction with another concrete path. Cross straight over this, onto a grassed area and then carefully, climb up through the dunes on an obvious sandy path, before dropping down onto the beach. There are good views of the Little Orme to you left and the Dee Estuary to your right.

          Turn right and follow the coastline, eventually passing the lighthouse.  Continue along the beach here, taking a gap in the dunes beside a flagpole, which brings you to a beach car park. Keep the wooden posts on your left, and climb up the boardwalk to a viewing platform. Follow this boardwalk back to the Smuggler’s Inn. To return to the car park, turn right and drop down across the mini roundabout back onto the road. Alternatively, you can extend the walk by another mile, by continuing ahead along the sea defence wall to the RSPB reserve at the end, before making your way back again.

Mid Wales – Mawddach Estuary – 3 ¾ miles – Moderate (Rail journey required)

          The Mawddach Estuary on the west coast of Wales is scenically outstanding, and this walk provides an opportunity to explore it, in a way that isn’t possible at other coastal estuaries. To start of with, a short 7 minute train journey is required, from Barmouth station, heading towards Aberystwyth. The train travels across Barmouth Bridge (enjoy the views out to sea on your right for this journey), before stopping at Morfa Mawddach Station. To halve the length of this walk, you could get off here. For the main walk, continue onto to Fairbourne Station, the next stop, and get off here. (Note: check timetables before attempting this walk. Tel: 08457 48 49 50 or visit www.nationalrail.co.uk. Sunday service on this line is very limited).

          From the railway station, turn right and follow the road down towards the beach. At a junction and where the narrow gauge Fairbourne railway line can be seen, you can either turn right and follow the road, or you can cross over the railway line and follow the seafront, but if you do, you’ll need to cross back over the railway again to rejoin the road, when you can see a golf course on your right.

          Continue down the road, following the railway, taking a signed footpath on your right, after the golf course. This path heads back into the estuary, before turning sharp right, and then left, to follow the bank of the River Mawddach, all the way to a stile just before the mainline railway line at Morfa Mawddach Station. Take care, and cross over the line, and then follow the path around to the left, to run parallel with the railway line. The path then crosses the estuary using the same bridge as the railway (with good views to your right up the river). There is a small toll fee for pedestrians to pay once you reach the other side of the estuary, but once through the toll gate, turn left to follow the main road (A496) into Barmouth. This road gets busy, so you may find it easier, to turn left under the railway, to the harbour, and then following the beach road round to the right to the main car parking area, and Barmouth Station is on your right.

South Wales – Rhossili Bay – 4 miles – Invigorating

          This is a popular route, giving fine views from the top of Rhossili Down, before exploring the shoreline on the way back. You should note that the climbs up and down Rhossili Down are steep in places.

          From the main car park (charge applies), walk back down the road, passing St Mary’s church. Where the road turns sharp right, turn left down a lane to a gate. Take the steps going uphill, continue through some gorse bushes and climb fairly steeply, ignoring paths off to the right. Head up to the summit, with its trig point, then relax and wander gently along the top of the ridge with good views all around you. On a clear day you should be able to spot the Devon coastline on your left, Tenby ahead and Swansea behind you.

          Eventually, the path rises gently to another smaller summit, before dropping steeply, down to a stile. Cross this and at a lane, turn left, passing a car park and caravan site. Continue down the lane towards the beach, and eventually through the dunes to reach the wide sands of Rhossili Bay. Turn left here, and follow the beach back to Rhossili. Look out for the Helvetia wreck if the tide is out. As you approach Rhossili, take the track on your left off the beach which brings you back to the point where you turned uphill onto Rhossili Down. Follow the track back to the road, turning right passing the church to return to the car park.

Which Ordnance Survey Map?

Walk 1 - Point of Ayr – OS Explorer 265 – Clwydian Range

Walk2 - Mawddach Estuary – OS Explorer OL23 – Cadair Idris & Bala Lake

Walk 3 - Rhossili Bay – OS Explorer 164 – Gower

Enterprise Neptune

          In 1965, the National Trust launched the Enterprise Neptune appeal to raise money to help buy and protect areas of threatened, but outstanding coastline in England and Wales. Now known as the Neptune Coastline Campaign, it has become the National Trust’s most successful appeal ever,

• The campaign has raised over £45 million to date.
• The first section of coast acquired using money raised through the appeal was Whiteford Burrows on the Gower Peninsula in 1965.
• In 1966, Worm’s Head and Rhossili Beach were also acquired.
• St David’s Head was bought in 1974.
• The Author and broadcaster, Wynford Vaughan-Thomas donates Patchyn Glas, a bay in North Pembrokeshire, to the National Trust in 1984.
• 1985 – Enterprise Neptune relaunched, with a new initiative, Apêl Glannau Cymru - Wales Coastline Appeal, in an attempt to acquire more of the Welsh coastline.