SIMON WHALEY

Come to Caldey

This week’s issue of The People’s Friend carries my travel piece about Caldey Island on its front cover.

The People’s Friend – 23rd May 2020

Caldey Island lies about a mile off from Tenby on the Pembrokeshire Coast. It’s a truly magical place that feels a completely different world. There are few motorised vehicles (a tractor or two and an amphibious people carrier – more on that later!), and so exploration is done on foot.

But first, you have to get there. Arrive at the harbour early to maximise your day, and queue up for your ticket at the Caldey Island Kiosk.

Queuing up!

My advice? Pick a day when the sea is calm. It might only be about a mile off shore, but even on the calmest days there can be a good breeze across the water.

Island Ahoy!

When you arrive, there’s a good map to help you get your bearings. But then, let’s face it, it’s a relatively small island, so you can’t really get lost! Follow the main track to the monastery and then decide where to go to explore.

You are Here!

The Monastery isn’t quite in the centre of the island, but it’s certainly the heart of the place, and where most visitors congregate. There are refreshments to be found here, and many people head for some tea and cake before doing anything else. I opted to continue exploring. Being on one of the first boats of the day it meant I could explore and have more of the island to myself.

The Monastery on Caldey Island

While the Monastery takes pride of place in the heart of the island, there are, in fact, two other churches. Near to St David’s is a statue of Saint Samson, who is the patron saint of Caldey, having lived here during the 6th century.

Saint Samson

The small church of St David’s is tranquil with nobody else about and full of some wonderful stained glass windows.

Through the Round Window
And the Arched Window

Visitors can look inside the monastery when services or prayer are not taking place. In some ways, the quietness is profound. So why do these places always have the noisiest of door hinges? It’s not possible to quietly slip inside these places!

Inside the Monastery

From here, I headed south, to the furthest point away from Tenby, and the venue of a wonderfully positioned lighthouse. From here, it’s possible to gaze right across the Bristol Channel and there, in the distance, I spy Lundy Island.

Lundy Island

Always stick to the footpaths on Caldey, of which there are several to help you explore. I took the route from the lighthouse round to the far west, where there are opportunities to spot wildlife, such as seals, basking on the rocky beaches below the cliffs.

Follow the path

The Old Abbey is near to the chocolate factory, and like St David’s church, has some marvellous stained-glass windows.

Stained-glass windows in Caldey’s Old Abbey

Look out for the Watchtower, a wonderful, circular building with fine views across the sea back to Tenby.

Tenby from the Watchtower.
Colourful Tenby

And when it’s time to leave, if the tide has turned, your escape involves more than a boat. Remember that amphibious vehicle I mentioned at the start? All aboard!

Driving up the quay.
Chugging out to sea … here comes the boat!
Transferring across to the boat.
Boating the final stretch back to Tenby.
Looking back at a grand day out!

%d bloggers like this: